Removing the flange of the beam splitter
Solutions: Specialized penetrating oils, impact wrenches, hydraulic nut splitters (which safely split the nut without damaging the bolt or flange), or controlled flame cutting (only as a last resort and with extreme caution) may be necessary. Thus to get your shear flow in the bolt, the original beam needs to deflect in order to engage that bolt, Thus it is already under stress / flex before the reinforcement starts to work. Also it then introduces high intensity stresses in the web which isn't really designed for that. There are various ways to transition from the full depth of the beam to the depth you may require at your support. Some examples are: Sometimes the top flange (wide thin plate at top and bottom of beam) will also be cut back to permit connections to the sides of other beams and avoid interference. A 7" beam does not sound sufficient to span 25 feet with a deflection limit of L/600 nor 5/16". Is it possible to install a new beam above and hang and brace the lower remaining beam from above? Best to put uprights on either side of the door, or make the door frame structural. Curious how one would go about removing a slight twist from a log splitter main beam by using a flame straightening tehnique? I have flame straightened bowed beams of various cross section before, as well as rectangular and round tubing, just not sure of the technique for removing an axial twist.
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